GFCI.txt 10/02/2020 @ 1505 What is the difference between GFI and GFCI outlets? There is no difference. Ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) and ground fault interrupters (GFI) are the exact same device under slightly different names. Though GFCI is more commonly used than GFI, the terms are interchangeable. GFCI circuit breakers and outlets protect people from electrical shock. The code changed to REQUIRE child-proof shutters on CFGI outlets. I believe that the code also changed to require self-testing capabilities. More modern GFCI outlets also come with self-testing capabilities, checking themselves automatically and using indicator lights or even alarms to let you know if there is a problem with your outlet. https://www.legrand.us/ideas/blogs/gfci-test What is this outlet with test and reset buttons? https://www.igs.com/energy-resource-center/blog/gfci-outlet-with-test-reset-buttons Can you put two GFCI outlets on the same circuit? You only need 1 GFCI outlet per circuit (assuming it's at the beginning of the line and the rest of the outlets are loads). They are correctly wired in parallel - if they were in series, you wouldn't get the correct voltage at the other outlets when there is any type of load present. It is possible. https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/14029/how-do-i-properly-wire-gfci-outlets-in-parallel ==== How to connect three #12 copper wires: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/111408/attaching-three-copper-wires-together-without-using-a-wire-nut Three #12 solid copper wires will fit neatly in the proper size wire nut. I use a red ScotchLok for that. A yellow color coded wire nut is too small. A grey color coded one might be too large. It can be very hard to attach wire nuts if there is not plenty of conductor. There is supposed to be 6 inches of conductor past the outside of the box. I do not pretwist solid copper wires. The wire nuts are designed to screw onto and tighten onto straight solid wires. If you pretwist three #12 copper wires the resulting bundle may expand so much that the bundle will not fit in a red ScotchLok. – Jim Stewart Six inches of conductor past the wall is the code, I think. But here's the standard procedure: Strip about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of insulation from the end of each wire, using a wire stripper. Be sure to use the right hole in the stripper so that you don't cut into the metal of the wire. https://www.thespruce.com/what-are-wire-connectors-1152349 current heating pad = 12 x 18 inches === But here's the standard procedure: Strip about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of insulation from the end of each wire, using a wire stripper. ... Hold the wires together, so their ends are aligned. Fit the appropriate size of wire nut over the wire ends and push into the wires while twisting the nut clockwise. https://www.thespruce.com/what-are-wire-connectors-1152349 About 1/2 inch of outer cable sheathing should extend into the box past the cable clamp. The ensures that the cable will be held securely and that the clamp will not compress and damage the insulation around the individual wire conductors. It is a code violation for the cable clamp to directly contact the wires themselves rather than the outer cable sheathing. https://www.thespruce.com/connect-nm-cable-in-a-metal-box-1152394 There should be at least 6 inches of free wire extending into the box for connection purposes; 8 to 10 inches is even better. This excess wire provides the slack necessary to make various wire connections to devices and also provides enough excess wire in case the wires need to be trimmed off in the futur Never run two cables into the box through the same knockout opening. Each cable requires its own knockout opening and clamp. Be careful not to tighten cable clamps so much that they crush the cable sheathing or damage the insulation on individual wire conductors. The clamps should be just tight enough so that the cables can't be pulled free by hand. ***************************************************************** When some GFCI receptacles lose power, they revert to the open (tripped) state. Once power is restored, these GFCI devices must be reset. – Tester101 Dec 27 '16 at 12:20 ***************************************************************** Some brands of GFCI’s trip on power loss. I first found this when putting them in on a bathroom sink outlet that was switched. Every time the light switch was turned off the GFCI tripped when the switch was turned back on. I switched brands and the problem went away. I think this was an early safety that today some new GFCI’s make you press test then reset to energize the GFCI for the first time so I would change brands with one and verify the tripping is no longer happening before replacing them all. https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/172727/gfi-outlets-tripped-after-power-outage/172731 Why is it tied to the brand and not a design specification? Is there a way to verify this "feature" before you buy? – Nelson Sep 6 '19 at 9:34 Look at the technical specifications if it says anything like “low voltage trip”. The GFI outlet I got also has this feature, and it is documented. Though that doesn’t rule out some manufacturers including this feature without documenting it. – user149408 Sep 6 '19 at 11:05 MY PROBLEM WAS W/A LEVITRON. Someone else reported a problem with an EATON GFCI. BEIGE TEST/RESET BUTTONS (NOT red [reset] and black [test]) indicate The one I'm having problems with a Leviton is about 3 years old (bought for another project) - it has a small green power on indicator light. It is a Leviton SmartLockPro Decora (style). Both the TEST and RESET buttons are BEIGE (indicates type of design) - Model T43-7599-PA. Other brands have been reported as having the same problem. BTW, it is no longer legal to neither sell nor install GFCI that have a BLACK TEST and a RED RESET button (They lack a required feature). NEC2020 (Electrical law) increases GFCI Protection: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/company/news-insights/for-safetys-sake-blog/NEC-2020-increases-GFCI-protection.html During the recent 2020 code review, panel members of the National Electrical Code (NEC) approved changes to ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. Those changes dramatically reduce the dangers associated with electrical hazard and shock. The most significant change is the increase of amp protection ratings across all receptacle outlets, both indoor and outdoor, wherever GFCI protection is required. In this blog, I’ll discuss how that change informs: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/company/news-insights/for-safetys-sake-blog/NEC-2020-increases-GFCI-protection.html#GFCI Editor's advice is correct. For a time, some builders of GFCI devices considered this behavior to be a "feature". Undocumented, of course. This is largely gone from the market, so I would cautiously buy one of a particular make/model, and see if it works as you like. If it does, buy more. Too bad, it would make a nice feature for some applications, like a table saw. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7392943 Current codes require dedicated circuits for bathrooms. However when GFCI's where first required the bathroom circuits did not have to be dedicated and GFCI's where relatively expensive. So it was common practice to wire all bathrooms, outside receptacles, and garge receptacles on one circuit with one GFCI. So check ALL BATHROOMS and the garage receptacles for a GFCI. And do to remodeling they may have been moved. Someone reporting finding one in a closet.